HM Lang
Heidelinde & Markus Lang - Fuchs und Dachs 2020
Heidelinde & Markus Lang - Fuchs und Dachs 2020
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Heidelinde & Markus Lang
Fuchs und Dachs
2020
Grüner Veltliner
75cl
10.5% alc.
Riede Steiner Braunsdorfer
Krems, Austria
Certified organic and biodynamic, unfiltered
The Grüner Veltliner grows in the Steiner Braunsdorfer vineyard in a side valley of the Danube. The subsoil is approximately 4-5 meters deep in loess soil on bare rock. The site is very steep and the vines are located on small terraces. They are around 50 years old and have been managed by the Langs for four years and have been converted to demeter certification . The vines have a foliage 2.4 meters high. The location is approximately 250 meters above sea level. Furthermore, in this wine there is a small percentage of 90 year old Steiner Schreck vines, normally intended for "Dritter Akt" wine . The name comes from the fact that badgers have their dens in the loess of this vineyard. During the cold winters, foxes like to take refuge here and lie down together with the badgers until the weather gets warm again.
The grapes are pressed very slowly for two days on a self-designed 100 ton tree press. The pressing process itself is completely reductive, but subsequently the juice has time to darken, so it is deliberately exposed to oxidation. The juice is fermented spontaneously and matured for two years on whole yeasts in large Stockinger wooden barrels. During fermentation, Lang adds 3 to 5% destemmed grapes, which are intercellular (as in carbonic maceration ) and thus restart the fermentation process again despite the constant 9 °C in the cellar.
Color
Light straw yellow
Nose
The fox and the badger smell rich in finesse and elegant, clear and precise, which I give to a burgundy glass to develop. The carafe doesn't hurt either. What comes out of the glass is a truly unique interpretation of the Grüner Veltliner, in which the immanent spice is only one component of many and fits directly into the overall picture. The wine is more reminiscent of Hautes Côtes de Beaune, Auxey-Duresses or Saint-Romain than Kremstal. The aroma consists of bright flowers, yellow citrus notes with a few splashes of lime, with stone and lichen, mint, some mirabelle plum and a light yeast component and a hint of wood. You immediately notice the closeness to "Kalt und Klar" wine, but here the notes are a little warmer, not so puristic, but subtle and very fine.
Palate
The origin of the wine is more evident on the palate than on the aroma. The spicy and slightly peppery Grüner Veltliner lights up more often. Basically, the lean and complex, decisive and energetic style of Markus Lang is also evident here. Furthermore, despite the crystal-clear and powerful acidity, the Fuchs and Dachs is a wine with a fine, creamy glaze and a beautiful yeast impression with a touch of oxidized pome fruits and a bit of wood, which brings a slightly exotic component to the wine. In the finish it becomes more and more salty and appetizing by the minute, so much so that you can't let go of the wine.
Suggested pairings:
- Trout karaage with romaine lettuce and mirin dashi sauce
(fish)
- Roasted white asparagus with egg yolk cream and lemongrass emulsion
(vegetarian and vegetarian)
- Roasted turkey leg with kumquats, garlic and juniper
(poultry)
Copyright: Christoph Raffelt
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